An exhilarating blend of Nordic adventure, cultural encounters, and environmental awareness in the heart of the Arctic: Jakob Sejling got to travel with Timetravels to Swedish Lapland in December – an affordable adventure on a student’s budget!
Before we even see the kennel, the howling and the smell of the 100 Alaskan husky dogs greet us. The scent is an overwhelming mix of their dirty business and the raw meat in their food – they eat about a kilo of it every day. Their howls sound wild, almost wolf-like. Moments later, I’m fumbling with my pack, trying to position it in the sled while grabbing my phone for a photo. The “Go!” command rings out, and my German travel companion releases the brake holding the eager dogs. Suddenly, we’re off! I’m thrown back into my seat, snowflakes splashing my face as the dogs’ frantic paws kick up icy debris. The barking ceases, replaced by the rhythmic sound of their heavy panting.
The ride is rough, the trail littered with bumps and turns that demand my attention. I find myself leaning from side to side to dodge low-hanging branches as the sled veers to the forest’s edges. The icy conditions make it trickier; I can hear the scrape of the sled’s runners grinding against exposed patches of ice, the harsh sound of metal on ice cutting through the crisp air. As the trees blur past, I notice the steam rising from the dogs’ warm working bodies and their hot breath in the cold air. Even as we race along, the scent of the dogs lingers, mingling with the freshness of the icy air.
A fragile wonderland
Lapland is a land of arctic adventure, and dog sledding feels like the definitive Nordic experience: fast-paced, physical, and a little rough around the edges. It contrasts with the quiet beauty of the northern lights and the serene winter landscapes. Yet, like all wonderlands, this place comes with a sense of fragility – in its nature, its people, and its future.
During the dog sledding adventure, we hear about the unusually low snowfall this season, coupled with surprisingly high temperatures. The icy conditions make injuries to the dogs a real risk, so we’re instructed to brake hard whenever necessary to keep them safe. Fortunately, we’re in good hands, and the clear instructions make it easy to learn how to drive the sled and care for the dogs. While snowshoe hiking, we are reminded by our guide to savor the arctic night’s silence and breathe in the pristine, unpolluted air. Hundreds of kilometers away from any noisy, polluted city, this place feels untouched. Lichen, a plant that thrives only in clean air, covers the birch trees here.
The fragility extends beyond nature to Lapland’s indigenous people. At Marja’s reindeer farm, we get a glimpse of the Sami way of life. Marja’s young son joins her, adding his own story by selling handmade keychains for pocket money, which adds another layer of authenticity to our encounter with Sami culture. Rather than abandoning their traditional way of life for a modern one, many Sami have adapted their trade, incorporating tools like GPS, helicopters, and lightweight tents. Marja shares that many still practice reindeer herding, and she believes her son might one day carry on the tradition.
But the relationship between the Sami and the Swedish state reveals a more complex and painful history. When I ask Marja privately about colonialism, her response is brief. She shares that many Sami still feel the weight of those struggles today. It’s a delicate subject; one she avoids addressing with our larger group. Connecting with the Sami experience is challenging for us students, yet before leaving, many of us eagerly buy key rings from Marja’s son to support the family, arranging cash and expressing heartfelt thanks.
European multiculturalism merges with rural Scandinavia
Traveling to Lapland isn’t just about discovering a new culture and exciting activities – it’s also about forging connections with others. In my opinion, travelling makes the most impactful impression when you connect to new people. Initially, I worried about feeling lonely on the trip and being the outsider, as I didn’t know anyone in the group. However, even before boarding the bus, I had already met my future roommates, who invited me to sit with them.
Another student joined me, and after 30 hours together on the bus, we became close friends and travel companions. My initial anxieties quickly disappeared, and I was reminded of the openness and solidarity exchange students often bring to new experiences – they make fantastic travel companions, embracing people, adventure and new experiences with enthusiasm.
Our group was a diverse mix, primarily from various corners of Europe. It felt like a convergence of cultures – a moment where Europe meets Lapland, sparking comparisons: Gløgg vs. Glühwein, Belgian waffles vs. Swedish waffles served with reindeer or cloudberries and cream, Danish hygge vs. Swedish fika. Young and loud, we raced down the slopes on skis, blasted (too) loud music, and plucked Lichen from trees to examine, only to meet the contemplative Arctic knowledge of the locals and our guides, who taught us about environmental care (don’t pluck the Lichen!), arctic survival and dressing for the cold.
It was a merging of European multiculturalism with rural Scandinavia. The novelty of a group of Europeans descending on a small town to explore the northernmost reaches of Scandinavia stirred curiosity. So much so, in fact, that we made the local news – our journey was covered in the town’s newspaper (here).
Our mixed group of loud Europeans thus brought a spark of curiosity to this corner of the world, blending our energy with the contemplative yet adventurous life in Hemavan. As such, when traveling with Timetravels to Swedish Lapland you experience the contemplative arctic know-how of guides and locals, the thrilling dogsled rides and the serene northern lights in the beautiful arctic nature. Finally, Lapland is not just about racing through snow-covered forests or sampling Swedish fika but also about learning to protect fragile ecosystems, engaging with Sami culture and meeting new friends and people along the way.
Disclaimer: The trip and activities mentioned in this article are sponsored and paid for by Timetravels, a Finnish travel agency specializing in tours for young people and students in Scandinavia.
